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Loyul Chu Valley

TREKKING THROUGH TIME: TIBET, 2004
LHAMO LATSHO ORACLE LAKE TREK
October 2004

Itinerary 

Notes from Gary McCue:

Tucked into a remote eastern corner of the Lhasa region is Lhamo Latsho, the "life-spirit" and "oracle" lake sacred to Gyelmo Makzorma, the wrathful aspect of Tibet's protectress, Peldon Lhamo. Each Dalai Lama was to visit this lake at least once in his life, arriving here in a great procession to make offerings to this protectress, and to contemplate the visionary water for insight into his future. After the death of a Dalai Lama, the Regent of the Gelukpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism and an entourage of lamas would journey to Lhamo Latsho seeking clues from the oracle lake for finding the boy who was the new Dalai Lama. In an adjacent valley to the lake is Ch–khorgyel monastery, founded by the Second Dalai Lama.

I believe this trek, which starts at Olka Dzong to the southeast of Lhasa, is one of the best in Tibet for combining scenery with outstanding religious and cultural sites. Marilyn and I are looking forward to sharing this amazing trek with you!

THE ITINERARY

October 6,7    Fly USA to Hong Kong, overnight in Hong Kong, hotel and meals on your own.
October 8 8 Free day in Hong Kong, hotel and meals on your own.
October 9 Fly from Hong Kong to Gongkar Airport in Tibet. We've about a 90 minute drive from the airport to Lhasa, following first the Tsangpo River and then the Lhasa River to reach the city late in the afternoon. Check into the Kyi Chu Hotel, which is Tibetan owned and run, and centrally located in the Tibetan part of Lhasa. The rest of the afternoon and evening will be spent casually to help us acclimatize to the 12,000 ft. altitude of Lhasa, with a chance to visit the Barkor, the Tibetan market area of Lhasa. The Barkor is a 1 kilometer-long pilgrimage circuit around the Jokhang, the holiest temple in Tibet.
October 10 Our first morning in Tibet is spent discovering the 7th century Jokhang temple, the focal point of the old Tibetan part of Lhasa. Inside is the Jowo statue, a magnificent image of the Buddha Sakyamuni when he was a 10 year old prince, which is said to have been crafted over 2500 years ago when he was alive. In the afternoon, enjoy a relaxed stroll through the park-like environs of Norbulingka, the Summer Palace of the Dalai Lamas.
October 11 This morning is the big ascent up the grand staircases of the Potala Palace, the soaring 1000-room former residence of the Dalai Lamas. After lunch we'll go for a warm up hike in the hills of Lhasa.
October 12 To prepare for our trek, we'll go on a full day hike, visiting some temples overlooking Lhasa.
October 13 Our journey to Lhamo Latsho begins with an 6-hour drive to Olka Dzong (12,800 ft.), a small town southeast of Lhasa, in the mountains to the north of the Tsangpo (Brahmaputra River) and the trailhead for our trek. We'll meet the horsemen and our Sherpa and Tibetan trek staff here, load up our gear then walk a short way to our camp in the Derimu Chu river valley (12,700 ft.).
October 14-17 Our trek to Lhamo Latsho begins with a visit to Ch–lung hermitage (13,500 ft.), a delightful retreat where Tsong Khapa, the founder of the Gelukpa sect of Tibetan Buddhism, spent five years at the end of the 14th century with his Eight Disciples of Olka. His meditation cave and two other caves are on the hill above the main temple. From Ch–lung we'll sidle across the ridgeside to reach Ch–zang (13,450 ft.), another idyllic hermitage of Tsong Khapa's. Our route now descends back to the river, then heads up the Loyul Chu valley. Our camps will be in the numerous yak herding meadows beside the river (14,000 ft.) as we continue ascending the spectacular Loyul Chu valley toward Gyelung La, our final pass crossing before reaching Ch–khorgyel monastery. We'll spend two nights in our last camp (15,500 ft.) before the pass, where we'll have an acclimatization day exploring the neighboring valleys for views of the glaciers near the pass.
October 18 The trail to Gyelung La (17,000 ft.) climbs steadily to the summit, taking several hours from camp to reach the summit. A huge glacier spills in from the south near the pass, and a large aqua- colored lake sprawls below the pass and the glacier. We then descend from the pass through outstanding mountain scenery to a camp near Ch–khorgyel monastery (14,750 ft.). Founded in the early 16th century by the Second Dalai Lama, Ch–khorgyel was completely devastated during the Cultural Revolution. This once grand complex is now a jumble of overgrown ruined temples; all that has been rebuilt is a chanting hall for the 15 monks who've returned to reside here.
October 19 The pilgrimage to Lhamo Latsho, the Dalai Lama's oracle lake, is full day's return hike from the monastery to the prayer flags fluttering on the pass (17,050 ft.) overlooking the lake. Few places in Tibet can rival the grandeur of this power place! Depending on the weather and the time of day, we'll decide whether to continue onto the lake side. In 1935 the Regent of Tibet rode a yak down from this pass to the lake to make an offering to the latsho, the life- power lake of the protectress Gyelmo Makzorma. From a vision he had while looking into the lake, the Regent was later able to locate the home of the boy who was recognized as the 14th Dalai Lama, who currently resides in exile in India. Camp near Chökhorgyel monastery.
October 20 It's an all day drive today, crossing Potrang La (15,800 ft.) to reach Tsethang, the capital of Shannan Prefecture. Although this area is steeped in ancient Tibetan history, Tsethang has become a Chinese city of "modern" buildings with blue glass windows. We'll stay in the Tsethang Hotel.
October 21 It's an early start and about a 2 hour drive to Gongkar Airport, for our flight to Chengdu. Transfer to the Jin Jiang Hotel. Farewell Dinner. Visit night market after dinner.
October 22 Fly from Chengdu to Hong Kong. Hotel on your own, if necessary, depending on your flight time to the USA.
October 23 Fly to USA.

PRICES, BASED ON GROUP SIZE:
5-6 people    $4850 (plus $890 for Hong Kong-Lhasa-Chengdu-Hong Kong airfare)

7-9 people $4360 (plus $890 for Hong Kong-Lhasa-Chengdu-Hong Kong airfare)

10-13 people   $3970 (plus $890 for Hong Kong-Lhasa-Chengdu-Hong Kong airfare)

14-16 people $3780 (plus $890 for Hong Kong-Lhasa-Chengdu-Hong Kong airfare)

These prices are based on double occupancy. If anyone would like to request a single hotel room and a single tent, or if you are a "forced single" (i.e., there is no one of the same sex available to share with) the single supplement fee is $350.

These prices include: all hotels and meals and tips for hotel staff and restaurant staff in Tibet and Chengdu; siteseeing, vehicles, drivers, and all entrance fees and all permits in Tibet; an English speaking Tibetan guide; professional Sherpa trek staff; top quality camping equipment; insurance for the trek staff; and Gary McCue as the group leader.

These prices do not include: international airfare from the USA to Hong Kong and back; hotels or meals in Hong Kong; airport departure taxes; private medical evacuation insurance or trip cancellation insurance, or any expenses incurred if someone must leave the group and break from the scheduled itinerary; Chinese visa fees; any alcohol, laundry, or room service; nor tips for the trek staff or drivers. Also, if a flight is canceled or delayed, forcing the group to stay an unscheduled extra night or more in a hotel, extra hotel nights and extra meals will be each person's own responsibility.


For more information contact:

Marilyn Mason
505.820.6306
info@marilynmason.com



Glacier below Gyelung La








Jokhang Temple








Potala roof








Norbulingka







Potala







Potala roof








Potala roof









Cholung Hermitage






Ascent to Gyelung La pass








Trekking toward Chokhorgyel








Hermitage above Chokhorgyel








Lhamo Latsho Lake